December 2007

Well it’s been quite a while since I’ve blogged.. probably because I feel like my feet haven’t really touched the ground for quite a while. It’s just been very busy socially with people leaving and Christmas and now new year upon us.. so what have a been up to? Mainly the month of December revolves mainly around my dear friend Katie:

Katie’s Last Month
Well, what an epic series of fabulous, manic and hilarious episodes:

1. Trip to Nungwi: A beautiful quiet spot up in the popular north. A lovely weekend, once we were there!

Getting there:
We were hampered by the piki breaking down far enough out of her village for it to matter; having to push start it in front of an amiable audience by the police station; breaking down again in nasty muddy puddle. Watching with wonder as Katie managed to commandeer a tiny bicycle from a rather large man and promptly peddle off to find a fundi (repair man) in the bush. Waiting with the bike and drawing an ever increasing number of men; watching with increasing anxiety as the advice and tools for repair became increasingly hefty. Anxiety levels getting rather too much with the production of large hammer and so I resorted to adopting the door mouse coping strategy and managed to fall asleep under a shady near by tree in the hope that when I awoke either Katy, a fundi or sanity returned to the scene. Magically it worked and all 3 materialized and we revved up off the road in no time!

There!
Once we arrived we were greeted by the indomitable Mike; the fabulous owner of Sanazi Beach Hotel, (a man who’s walked straight out of the pages of a Graeme Green novel) who regaled us with lewd, strange and hilarious tales at happy interludes. Happy hours snorkeling and munching fruit (not quite at the same time) lazing around and laughing ensued, followed by a crazy Full Moon party at Kendwa Rocks. Oh, and some very funny beach wrestling care of Katie and Erin.. but perhaps less said about that the better!

2. Katie’s byriani safari to Manga Pwani.
A lovely day spent on this little beach with Katie’s favourite families (about 20 people) from around Dunga; happily eating byrinai with our hands, swimming in kangas, dear Steve not quite grasping the concept of culturally sensitive beach wear. (Though actually I don’t think there is a culture where tiny speedos are acceptable.)


3. Katie’s pilau safari to Jambiani.
Just in case 20 people wasn’t quite enough.. this safari took around 65 people to the beach. Not quite sure how we all squeezed into 2 dalas along with mats for sitting, pilau, sodas.. Lovely day eating pilau in the school and playing on the beach, getting urchins in feet and burnt noses. But it all so nearly didn’t happen…see below

4. The Dunga Meat Crisis.
Well, all was set for the Jambiani safari; meat was bought (8Kilos), soda ordered, dalas booked.. and Katie and I arrived at her home in Dunga.. but then.. a simple phone call from Katie’s friend and how quickly the sense of calm anticipation vanished. It was Mwnacombo, Katie’s friend and chief pilau chef informing her that she needed to come over at once.

Once there Katie was informed that the wrong meat had been picked up from the butcher’s, meat that is no good for pilau ..So, where was the meat so it could be returned first thing? Oh, cooking in the pot of course! No, cooking byriani wasn’t an option as no one seemed to know that recipe here and it was the wrong kind of meat anyway…ARGGGGHHHHH!!!!!

The plan was to burn back to the butcher’s in town ( a good 30-40 mins on the piki) and get the right meat, hoon back in time for the pilau to be cooked for departure at 10.30am..seemed straight forward, if a little hectic, until we returned home to find... Katie’s purse was missing.. full of cash to pay for the buses in the morning and all her bank cards etc.

A mad hour or so spent searching and re-searching proved fruitless.. so the whole day out rested on me being able to remember my pin number, (so we could pay for the buses) after not using it for a good few months…no pressure then.. so up at dawn, riding into town, with the steadily rising feeling that I had no idea what my pin was ..but that suddenly I could remember my photocopying code from school, my credit card pin (resting happily and unhelpfully at home) and even my parents birthdays.. but miraculously when I tentatively entered those fatal 4 digits it worked! Phew! Almost tears of joy and relief!

So we were off to the market in time for opening of business at 7am. The big market here in town is quite something to behold first thing and a strong stomach is much required; amidst the flies and stench of fresh meat we spied the butcher’s stall and stepped over the head of a cow complete with horns and tongue that had just been delivered.

Sadly, Katie’s conversation with the butcher soon revealed that the meat had probably been switched and headed happily to the east coast, for an equally doomed meal. While Katie was overly absorbed bargaining for a discount, drawing an ever increasing crowd of happy spectators she was nearly flattened by the 2nd delivery of the morning, in the form of an enormous man on the tiniest piki, complete with the rear end of the aforementioned cow, complete with tail and hooves. Luckily I was able to hoik Katie out of the way just in time and was truly impressed to see that she didn’t miss a beat in her bargaining diatribe, ably securing a reasonable discount from the butcher.

Her parting word to me as we left were, “ Right Jane, what’s going to happen now is that you are going to carry these 8 kilos of dripping meat on you lap on the way back, because I’ve forgotten the bike straps”. So squirming not but a little I meekly suggested we found a slightly more substantial bag than the flimsy blue number we had and resigned myself to my miserable fate!

5. Zanzibari Clubbing Experience
That night, we headed into town for Erica Peace Core’s last night. A hideous night in Bawani, a local club ensued. What a venue: It had the deepest and emptiest swimming pool, strobe lighting and badbadbad music. I ran home to bed!

6. Trip to Matemwe
Onto quieter times Katie and I had a lovely, relaxing day up at Matemwe; swimming, munching a great lunch and dozing on the beautiful beach.

7. Local Salon henna Frenzy
Katie and I spent a hilarious evening in a local salon having henna and hair braided and learning some pretty racy dance moves for the ladies! A fantastic exit from the island for Katie!

8. The Annual Volunteer Conference
Heading into Dar with all Katie’s stuff, ready for the Volunteer Conference. At one point on day one I wanted to hide in my room and not come out.. too many people! Still I rallied myself and managed to make the most of seeing people and having fun, whilst trying to silence the voice of conscience in my head.

9. Katie’s last night
A lovely evening at Lyn’s in Dar with Will, Chris, Katie, Alan, Kelly and Sandra. We ate lots of treats, drank wine and played silly scrabble games. Very lovely for Katie’s last night, yet no drama!

10. Christmas
On the ferry at last, after saying Goodbye to Katie, with Will, Sue, The Cowies and Corrie. Arrived at Maruhubi for a few days of relaxation.

I spent many a happy hour wandering around the labyrinth of Stone Town; gradually finding my routes and making sense of it. It was lovely to have the time to enjoy this amazing place I live in.

Otherwise, Will and I spent a nice day out east near Uroa visiting some vols there and generally lazing about. Had comedy swim, trying to avoid our feet being cut to pieces on the sharp rocks by wallowing though the shallows on our hands.
I spent an especially nice morning in the office on Christmas Eve, giving the guys there their Pemban honey for Christmas. Nice to be doing something that felt real after a week or so of removed nonsense at the conference. Christmas day was magic; everyone went out and Will and I lazed around, stirring occasionally to nibble on a sweet, have a swim or chat. Just the Christmas I wanted and needed. Lovely.

Now, I’m back at work tonight is New Year’s Eve. Tonight should be the last social whirl for a while.. there are some VSO’s from Malawi here, which is nice and I’m meeting a new friend for dinner first. Then, I’m rather hoping things will quieten down, at least for a few weeks before the music festival hits us.

Phew! 3 pages.. sorry about that! I’ll try and lead a quieter life from now on. Xx
Happy New Year!